So, here’s where I write about Katrina

27 08 2010

The French Quarter last night was pure magic and mystery, deserted, silent, spooky, and beautiful. We walked over to eat at Bennachin, an African restaurant on Royal Street. (See, it’s not ALWAYS gumbo and poboys down here…) Finding the restaurant full, and the night pleasantly warm but not stifling, we ordered food to go and took a walk for the 30 minutes it took for it to be prepared. I can’t remember when I’ve seen the Quarter so quiet. Almost eerie. Now, granted, we were on the end of the Quarter very near Esplanade, so it’s always more residential there than touristy, but nonetheless the quiet moment afforded me the time to appreciate the beauty all around me. And to be thankful, once again, for the opportunity and the privilege it is to live here in New Orleans, a place I have loved so deeply since I was a little girl.

I’d gone back and forth in my mind about writing about the fifth anniversary of Hurricane Katrina here. On the one hand, I didn’t live here at the time, so what do I have to say that could possibly matter? That could resonate, could begin to approach the pain and sorrow those who did felt? On the other hand,  my sister’s home  in the Broadmoor neighborhood of Nola flooded and my mother’s home on 2nd St. in Gulfport, Mississippi was nearly swept away. So, while I was spared, my immediate family was not, and their pain is mine, and my pain is everyone’s who watched, as I did, in absolute horror at what looked like something post-apocalyptic unfolding day by day, those horrible days after the storm. I remember thinking, “Can it get any worse? It can’t get any worse.” And then it would.

As an aside, I would vote for Lt. General Russel Honore for mayor, or governor, or senator, or President, or king of the universe, or whatever that man might want to run for. Even now when I see him on TV, the emotions well up. The dignity and calm he brought to a chaotic situation are other-wordly.

My primary plea to everyone as we come upon this fifth anniversary, and the attendant media rush and rancor about it, is to just remember, please, that this was a human tragedy. That’s someone’s sister, someone’s brother, someone’s son, someone’s mother you see there, in that old footage, standing atop houses pleading for help amidst acres of hot filth and dirty water. Those are people with dreams and hopes and fears experiencing unimaginable loss. And no one deserves to go through what the people here and on the Mississippi Gulf Coast went through.

Think about the people you love, and your home, and your neighbors, and your neighborhood. Think about your daily routine, running to the drug store down the street, going off to work, returning home at the end of the day, to sink into your bed, surrounded by everything you know and love. Now, try to imagine it all gone. All of it. Imagine the anxious uncertainty, the sadness, the despair, the fear.

I know. It’s hard for me to imagine it, too. But I try, because I don’t want to forget, I don’t want any of us to forget, that that is what we are talking about here. PEOPLE.  I understand the need and the desire to figure out who’s at fault, who’s to blame, to figure it all out so we hopefully prevent something like this from happening again. I understand the need to get political about it, and to get angry. I really do. It’s just that, for me anyway, I want to honor the fact that actual human beings persevered against a situation so overwhelming, so seemingly impossible. To me, that is the best way to commemorate the fifth anniversary, by remembering that this happened to people, your fellow Americans, people just like you and just like me, and to be amazed that the folks here and along the Coast were able to come back from it.

Has it been easy? Is everything ok now? Of course not. I’m not suggesting it is. We have a long way to go, to be sure. There are still New Orleanians scattered across the country who want to come home and can’t. Across the street from my mother’s house in Gulfport, there are three big empty spaces, where her neighbors were left, literally, with slabs for homes and they haven’t built back and likely won’t. Five years later, she’s living in a ghost town for a neighborhood block, as many here are also doing.

My point is only that as you watch all the coverage this weekend and hear all the talking heads on TV, take a breath and remember the people involved here. Remember the people. Make it about the people. Be a little kinder. Show compassion to everyone around you. And be thankful for everything that you have, for your loved ones, and even for the daily annoyances that challenge you. Trust me, you’ve got it good.





The 11th Commandment

15 08 2010

Better get right with God, BP…





Kindra Arnesen. Badass.

29 07 2010

Kindra Arnesen, of Venice, Louisiana, is what you might call an accidental activist. That’s not to say she’s not wired for the job or not good at it, but I think it’s safe to say it’s not a role she cherishes or ever expected to be thrust into. She’s the wife of a Gulf fisherman and mother to two little children she evacuated from Venice for health reasons, no longer wanting to expose them to the toxic dispersants used by BP, not to mention the, you know, oil. She’s also an inspirational and fearless leader, a voice for the so-called “small people” of South Louisiana’s fishing communities. She’s feisty, sharp, and strong-willed, and I wouldn’t want to go up against her. However, knowing she’s out there, speaking truth to power without any hesitation, makes me feel better.

All of us down here and across the Coast — and, shoot, across this country — owe her a big thank you. So, Kindra, on the off-chance you ever see this, thank you, and please, I know the fight is long and tiring, but we need you. Keep it up.

Here are two videos that can better illustrate Kindra’s strength than I can with words:

Spilling Over  (The Washington Post – a powerful video about the possibility that Venice, LA will cease to exist altogether)

Venice, Louisiana Needs to Evacuate (YouTube — this is a speech Kindra gave back in June and was the first thing I saw about her)





For all the Gulf critters

20 07 2010

I happily picked up my new Mignon Faget pelican pendant today, which benefits the Coalition to Restore Coastal Louisiana. If you’re not familiar with Mignon Faget’s work, she is local jeweler (and fifth generation New Orleanian!) who has been making beautiful pieces in sterling silver and gold for over 40 years. Her “Gulf Coast” collection contains gorgeous renderings of oysters, pelicans, redfish, speckled trout, and yellowfin tuna, all benefitting the Coalition to Restore Coastal Louisiana. This won’t stop my heartache for the animals, but hopefully I’ve helped them just a bit, and I’ll wear my pelican with pride.

Here’s a link to her online site and this specific collection, if you’re interested: http://www.mignonfaget.com/shop/category/gulf-coast.html





Goodbye, Louisiana oysters

11 06 2010

The oldest oyster processor and distributor in the country, New Orleans’ own P&J, just announced that it’s going to have to start shipping in oysters from the West Coast. The 134 year-old company had to lay off some of its workers and is doing what it can to just hang on in the hopes that the oyster beds in the Gulf of Mexico recover. Other oyster processors around the city are experiencing the same thing, so Louisiana oysters will soon be a relic of the past here in the Big Easy, at least for a time. A horrible state of affairs, if you ask me.

So, to combat my sorrow and to fill my belly, I walked over into the Quarter today and enjoyed two dozen raw oysters, from the remaining P&J stock. I hope they aren’t my final ones ever.

Thanks, again, BP, you bastards.

Ordered a dozen, and got 18. Love that Nola generosity!

And, done!

Monster oyster!

18 just wasn’t enough, so here’s 6, er, 8 more.

A map/placemat depicting the oyster beds in the Gulf that P&J sources from. I took one home as a keepsake. The oysters we ate today were from area 7. And man, were they ever delicious.





Krewe of Dead Pelicans

6 06 2010

Down here, when you pass on to the other side (wherever and whatever that may be), we send you off with style, music, and dancing. Jazz funerals are one of my most favorite traditions here, a bit of culture that is truly and uniquely New Orleans. They are both a mourning for the person’s passing, and a celebration of his or her life. I hope like hell someone sees to it that I get one when I go.

So, then, it’s only right that we have a jazz funeral and “second line” parade for the dearly departed wildlife from the oil spill. It happened yesterday and a handful of photos are below.





No oyster poboys!

3 06 2010

Damn you, BP. Not only are you contaminating the Gulf, coating the wildlife with sludge, and putting fishermen out of business, but now you’ve gone and robbed New Orleanians of the best oyster poboys in the city. I’m talking about the ones from Parkway, of course. There’s nary an oyster to be found in the place, thanks to volatile and rising prices on the little bivalves. So, I had to make do with shrimp. Not the worst compromise in the world, but still, not oyster!

(I like how those three shrimp off to the side seem to be making a break for it. Not so fast, lil buddies…)





Here is the church. Here is the steeple.

30 05 2010

On this rainy, somber Sunday in New Orleans, I thought I’d share a few photos of St. Augustine Church, right by me here in the Treme. I took these earlier in the week, after a summer afternoon rain, when the sky was nearing dusk and was streaked and beautiful. St. Augustine’s the oldest African-American Catholic church in the country, and is worth checking out if you haven’t before.





The wildlife weeps. And so do I.

26 05 2010

Today, for some reason, I finally let myself watch the streaming live video of the oil currently pouring into the Gulf of Mexico. I’d been avoiding it, only because I knew how it would break my heart. And this whole mess is already so damn heartbreaking, who needs to pile on more?

Apparently I do.

Because after watching the oil, billowing, black and horrible, I then let myself read this well-written, heart-wrenching Washington Post article — In Louisiana, wildlife show effects of gulf oil spill – and it about did me in. The tears started from pretty much the article’s sad and compelling opening paragraph:

“GRAND ISLE, LA. — In the Louisiana marsh, oil-coated pelicans flap their wings in a futile attempt to dry them. A shorebird repeatedly dunks its face in a puddle, unable to wash off. Lines of dead jellyfish float in the gulf, traces of oil visible in their clear “bells.”

I am sad for everyone involved and affected– the families of the dead oil rig workers, the fishermen wondering what’s to come of their livelihoods… But it’s the animals that are making it hard for me not to cry, making it hard for me to breathe on this gorgeous sunny Wednesday in this beautiful place. The animals, they must be so confused.

Thinking about that one bird repeatedly trying to clean his head in a puddle… How many more birds are going to feel that very thing and not understand? How many more sea turtles will wash up dead? How many more dolphins will fall victim to swimming in — to LIVING in — that hazy mess out there?

They can’t escape it. And they can’t comprehend it. And they didn’t do anything to deserve it. And to me, that makes this whole situation so sad I can hardly bear it. My eyes just keep filling with tears again and again thinking about it.

Lest you label me some rabid, silly, over-the-top environmentalist, I’m not (not that there’s anything wrong with that, of course). I’m just an empathetic human being who hates to see suffering in others, be they human or otherwise. Those animals out there, just trying to eat and breed and fly and swim and exist… in the middle of this maelstrom… Well, I am praying for them. I don’t quite know what else to do. I am praying for them and hoping against hope they make it through this violence, this assault on them, as best they can.

“One thing, all things;
move among and intermingle,
without distinction.”
– from Verses on the Faith Mind, by Seng-Tsan, the third Zen patriarch








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